waimea

Oahu

We landed into Oahu this morning after an all-nighter from Sydney yesterday arvo. Planes gross me out in general, but when you're sitting on there with a few hundred strong, frugal vacation-bound travellers it can be nek-level fucked up. Anyway, we made it into Honolulu and headed straight to Waikiki in our VW Beetle to freshen up and check the sights. First up Ala Moana, to see where my childhood idols (Kainoa, Aka) surfed and to go for a walk and get some blood flowing. Next up was Waikiki beach, where we hired some mals and surfed a marshmallowey outer reef. There were some turtles popping up from the reef which kept Kel busy while I got to surf a fun left.

After we cleansed the soul of Jetstar's economy marinade, we got in the car and headed straight to the north shore. We arrived into the back end of a fading 30 foot swell with leftovers in the 10-15ft range throughout the afternoon at the more exposed spots. Pipe had 3rd reef waves coming through and I could think of so many other people I'd rather be than the guys out there, but they really put on a show. Waimea was a bit wonky and looked like a great wave for pippie hunting if you're into diving 25m deep under a set.

We finished the day being little piglets by hitting the Waimea Valley markets for some shrimp curry and watched people get smoked in the shorey. Sitting here typing this, it's crazy to come back the the house and feel the house shake from the waves hitting the reef out the front of the place.

Kelly-Shaw-Volkswagen-Beetl

Andre-Botha-Pipeline-Surf

Jon-Jon-Florence-Respect

Log-Cabins-Surf

Waimea-Valley-Farmers-Markets

Waimea-Shorebreak-Sunset

Watching people scrap for the horizon when second and third reef bombs came through caused a little bit of anxiety.

Dense-Tree-Waimea

Woman waits for public transport on the highway, surrounded by lush green.

Flora-Waimea-Valley